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Attems is a classic pinot grigio producer from Italy’s Venezia region. This 2019 vintage release is surprisingly dry — very crisp, with lots of mineral notes I don’t usually expect to find in pinot grigio. Fruit percolates as the wine warms and opens up, but it keeps the focus on lemon and grapefruit, with a squeeze of vanilla in the mix. The finish finds more of the gentle florals and tropical notes one expects to see in pinot grigio, but it’s all quite drying, the fruit taking a back seat to notes of flint and saline.